The windows are made from three layers of thin card. This creates the depth of the sash. These windows are unusual as they also have a plastered surround that is painted in the same colour as the window. This can be seen painted brown.

 The two layers are painted cream and fitted behind the outer window frame. The thin glazing bars are created by cutting very thin strips of art paper and painting with acrylic prior to fitting. The paint strengthens these bars and if glued in place whilst they are still tacky pull taught as they dry. Making glazing bars like this allows for any type of bespoke window. On close examination they are slightly wavy where they cross each other, something noted in the Pendon book, but from a distance look pretty effective.

The glazing is added in two layers which further enhances the effect of the sash construction.

The roof presented a real challenge. This is the first time I have got as far as modelling a roof in 5.5mm scale. The slates were made with water colour paper strips. The slates on this building are far from a uniform colour and were built up with dozens of layers of individual colours. There is a lot of purple and blue in the colour and the roof contrasts sharply with the ochre and umber colours of the walls.

Most the techniques used come from my trusty copy of Cottage Modelling for Pendon. The main difference is that I prefer to use artists acrylics rather than water colours.

 So this summer I have managed to build the cottage which is the focal point of the model. I thought it would be an easy little house to model but it quickly became apparent how complex it is. Without trespassing I could only photograph it from the front, but fortunately since its fantastic restoration by the Landmark Trust a lot more pictures have appeared online of different views. These combined with the pictures from the Ffestiniog archive have given me a lot more information. The Landmark Trust website even includes a floor plan. The surprising thing that I had never appreciated is that the rear of the cottage is two storeys with the back door being stepped down below the front ground level. The model has been built using card covered in scribed Das. The little rendered panel above the back door is clearly visible in several archive photos and is represented using pepper.

 The porch is a distinctive feature of the cottage and was built using plasticard.

The lattice walls were made from Evergreen plasticard strips.

The front elevation of Coed y bleiddiau. The stones have been copied from the prototype where possible. So the quirky lintel above the window is correct! The walls are a warm colour, there is a lot of iron in the slates stones. The walls have wide mortar courses and this makes representing the stones tricky.

There are lots of little things that you spot when you really study a prototype, in the case of this cottage the porch is off centre and the windows are different sizes.

To the east of the cottage the line runs on a wider ledge. The path to Dduallt Manor can be seen to the right of the line. Here I am imagining a simple passing loop with Ffestiniog style shelter building.

 You can see the two heights of bridge arch in this photograph. I think the wall was built out at the front to reduce the radius of the curve and carry the heavier locos.

This is an overall view of the line being modelled.

 As some of you will already know the Railstoblackrocks project has taken a bit of left turn.
Due to a reorganisation of teenage sons rooms the Borth y gest boards have been mothballed. It has become obvious that at the current build rate it will be many years before it will be exhibitable. I've decided I want to have something to take to shows much sooner. So rather as Camberwick Green is  to Trumpton, Rails to blackrocks now has a little brother- Coed y bleiddiau!

After a morning spent at the location in May I decided this lovely little corner of the Ffestiniog offered an ideal location for a small vignette. Two small boards allow for the corner to be modelled prototypically but with a twist. To the right of the cottage the line continues on a rock cut ledge and here I have imagined that a passing loop existed. Boyd refers to a siding and coal drops (presumably for the cottage) somewhere to the east of the cottage so. There will only be two structures on the model, the cottage and a small station building based on the original one at Dduallt.

The main feature of this part of the line is the huge drystone walls the line runs along. The formation at Coed y bleiddiau was widened when the line was converted for locomotive haulage from a tramway. You can clearly see this today when you look at the bridge. The front is much more substantial than the rear. The bridge arch has two heights with the newer front portion being lower.

 My first bug box has come together nicely. The ends were easy to curve using a rolling pin. Hinges were aded using sections of wire. The MSM door handles caused the most problems as they are so delicate you can't file them without destroying them.

 A true Ffestiniog train rake is now starting to emerge, brake van 12 will be next.

 Having referred back to source material the prototype couplings were wagon style rather than chopper, and fixed. So the model isn't accurate in this respect. I have opened up a small square hole in the end which allows about 1mm swing either way. It also allows the height to be adjusted accurately at a later date.

 The chassis is very free running. The floor has to sit slightly higher up than prototypical within the body however. I think the axle boxes should be within the box section. This is not practical if using pinpoint bearings but I don't think it will be apparent when the model is finished.

I have designed the model to have a removable chassis as well as roof. I thought the top edge of the etch would be rather flimsy, but with the second lamination in place it is really strong.

Just blue tacked together at this point. I think the ride height is too high still, I will need to refer to some photos. Its going to look really effective paired with carriage 16.

Having decided that I will paint the new rake in one go, I have started to build my first Worsley Works etch. I have decided to build the match board bug box as this is the simplest of the seven variations I have. The only complication is how to mount the couplings. I could have them in a fixed position or if I cut a hole the carriage end I could mount it more prototypically with a small amount of swing. I have 7mm wheels and these seem to give the right ride height but these will need mocking up before I commit to fixing them in place. Like carriage 16 the axle boxes use shouldered pinpoint bearings. The seat forms the chassis like the real thing and this part of the kit folds up from a single etch which is very pleasing!

The end has been detailed with the addition of vacuum pipes. I was all set to paint it green but the Games Workshop paint will not spray without the dreaded orange peel effect. This is a shame as the colour looks really good. I've decided to leave it in primer until I have built more carriages and then can spray them with my own mix of Tamiya paint in one go.

 Here 16 is sitting outside the Pilot Cottages and looking very pristine. I think I will tackle the port hole bug box next. This should be relatively easy as there is nothing to modify.

 Its always useful to refer back to source material and I remembered that I had taken these pictures a couple of years ago.

 There is still quite a bit of detailing add to the ends when you compare to the photos above.

 Now I realise that for some people getting the right shade of green is not important, but for me colour is really important. The very few colour photos of the Ffestiniog in the interwar period show a slightly bluer shade than that used in the photos above but that is probably as much to do with the film quality as anything. I want a slightly drabber and bluer shade for my carriages but ideally a ready mixed paint. Whilst in Games Workshop with my son this week, I noticed a green that looks very promising. It's called 'Caliban' green and his available in an airbrushable mix. It's certainly closer to what I want than the existing Tamiya or Humbrol colours. I will use it for a first coat and see!

 The bogies have had couplings added and I have tested that there is enough rotation for the sharpest radius on the line.

The carriage is now sprayed in grey primer but there are still steps and a few other details to add. I'm going to see if I have any Archers rivet transfers left to add detail to the sole bar.I can't wait to see it sprayed green. Malcolm's cast sides really are exquisite. The only downside is the weight of the model, with gradients on my model I don't think my England Loco will be able to pull more than two of these.

 After a bit of thinking time I decided it was easier to remove the side frames from the stretcher and solder them closer together. This required me to make a jig which can be used when I build more. A piece of brass bar has been soldered on to allow the couplings to be fitted later in the same way the that the MSM bogies work.

A finished bogie- I decided not to add any detail as only the very bottom edge is visible beneath the carriage and when under the strong layout lighting is totally obscured. The bogie is very free running and because it is a lot narrower than the MSM bogie, has a lot more room to rotate in the tight space below the carriage. This has freed up another set of MSM bogies to go under one of the carries where they will be visible.

 Having made the new plain ends to the carriage I dug out some reference material and realised that the original model has an ornate panelled sole bar. I thought I could probably just overlay it with plasticard but this would leave it proud.

 So after several deep breaths I took a razor saw to it and cut the sole bar away. 

 I found this very slow and tedious and plucked up courage to score a deep line with a Stanley knife and then bent the sole bar until it snapped off.

 I had left about 1mm to file down. This allowed me to check that the top and bottom edges were parallel.

The two side panels were then glued together.

 New sole bars were made from Evergreen plastic section and superglued to the bottom edge of the carriage sides

 A new plasticard end was made using microstrip.

 A Worsley Works etched bogie has been built with shouldered pinpoint bearings. Unfortunately its too wide and the wheel set doesn't fit. The bearings will need to be removed and packed out. 

For a little light relief from making buildings, I have made a start on the Colonel Stephen's era rake. The first vehicle is carriage 15 from a Malcolm Savage Kit. This comes with an end door to the servants compartment and therefore needs some modernisation. I have used the end supplied with the kit as a template for a plain brass end. I am then going to overlay this with a thin plasticard layer with the correct panelling for the period.

This rake will be painted in the Kentish green livery with red ends. This is a very heavy model so I am going to use the bogies I had etched by Worsley Works with pinpoint bearings.

The iron railings have been added to the front gardens. The gates have been made from adapted plain fencing panels with the addition of a diagonal brace and nickel silver strip used for the end uprights. The fearsome Mrs Evans is from the Footsore Miniatures interwar range. She really looks the part in the front garden.

The steps down to the first cellar have also been completed. There is a lovely contrast in wall textures between the dresses stone frontage and the rough slate retaining walls to the courtyard. These have been painted to represent a weathered lime wash effect. Just the doors to the store room to be made and some suitable household items added. I think an old tin bath would really set the seen along with a dolly tub and poster- now I don't suppose they are available in 5.5mm scale!!